What Table Saw Should I Buy?

Video - December 1, 2015

Trying something new here. It’s a mini-series I’m calling Shop Talk. Project videos are awesome but with so much time between videos I sometimes feel a little out of touch. These periodic short format videos give me an opportunity to talk shop while also answering a specific viewer question, hopefully passing on some useful information in the process.

Updates & Thanks

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Sean Rubino sent in a beautiful gilded/patinad board which you’ll soon see adorning my shop wall. Check Sean out: SpunjinWorks.com and YouTube/SeanRubino
Just completed the Gaming Dining Table which is available in the Guild. A short video will be available soon on the free site.

What Table Saw Should I Buy?

Skip sent in an email asking for advice on a table saw purchase. He was considering SawStop, Powermatic, and Jet. Ultimately, he decided to go with Jet for the sake of affording more tools to complete his shop setup.

What to Look For

Flat Table – The area around the blade should be reasonably flat. The rest of the table is less important since the primary reference surface exists around the blade.
Zero Clearance Inserts – Make sure the table takes either shop-made or commercially-available zero clearance inserts.
Splitter or Riving Knife – A splitter or riving knife is required equipment as far as I’m concerned. The best option is an easily-removable riving knife.
Reliable Fence – The fence should be nice and straight with no flex and should lock down reliably each and every time it’s put into position. It should also be easy to adjust.
Standard Miter Slot – Avoid proprietary or oddball miter slots. A standard miter slot is easy to build for and just about every after-market accessory that uses a miter slot will be at your disposal.
Takes a Dado Stack – Dado stacks really multiply the versatility of a table saw so make sure your arbor is long enough to take a stack safely.

What Not to Worry About

Blade Guard – Blade guards are important but if the saw doesn’t come with one, don’t fret. You can always add an aftermarket guard.
Extension Wings – If the saw has cheap plastic extension wings, that’s not all that big of a deal. Remember, the primary reference surface for the saw is around the blade. Everything is there to support the work so if it isn’t dead flat, it’s not a deal breaker.
Stock Blade – Most stock blades are fairly low quality and have a limited life. You’ll want to upgrade anyway so don’t let a crappy blade dissuade a saw purchase.

This advice really just scratches the surface but should give you a starting point for your table saw search. If you have any other tips for buying a table saw, feel free to leave a comment below!

Discussion

Dr Drake Ramore December 1, 2015 4:20 pm

Hey Marc. I had a used 80’s Delta unisaw cabinet saw that I picked up from a contractor a couple years ago. I love it because it was once one of those 2,500 saws brand new that I got for $350. There is no way I can blow a big amount on a new saw. I also love it sao much because my first ever table saw was a rinky dink Ryobi $90 saw from Home Depot which was terrible for woodworking. Anyway I’m moving and my new shop will be much smaller and to get to the shop from the street there are many stairs and a hill involved. Rather than deal with how I would transport this heavy beast of a machine I am selling it and am looking to buy a lighter saw. I found at Home Depot a rigid R4512 cast iron “hybrid” saw. I would love your impression of this saw as workshop center piece, or if there is another hybrid type saw that you know of that would be lighter that the big cabinet saws.

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- Evan December 6, 2015 12:35 pm
  
  I have that ridgid saw. I haven’t used any big iron but compared to my father’s inexpensive contractor saw from the 70s it is way better. The fence is OK as long as you get it set right and don’t put too much lateral pressure on it and keep the rails clean of sawdust. The mobile base works really well. I doubt it will compare to your delta favorably but it is certainly possible to do good work with it.
  
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  - Mike McDonald December 18, 2015 12:40 am
    
    Hey Drake. I have the lighter version of that Rigid saw. I have the portable jobsite version on a folding roller stand. For the purpose and price it would be very difficult to be more inpressed by that saw. I used to have a $1200 JET table saw. The Rigid beats the JET in every single category except for sound. The Rigid is very loud. The JET was super smooth. A nice hum.
    
    The Rigid uses 110 power obviously, but its got enough power to saw through a 4 inch thick board of maple. I’ve done it surprisingly with no problems. The whole saw is super lightweight which some consider to be a bad thing but its well balanced so it doesnt move around while you’re cutting. The fence is great once you set it correctly, it accepts a dado stack, the dust collection is VERY good for a home depot saw. I cant say enough good things about the Rigid brand of table saws. Very impressive.
    
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Brent December 1, 2015 4:40 pm

Chevy Chase. Classic.

Also, congratulations!

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Richard Fuerst December 1, 2015 6:24 pm

can you go threw table finishes (car wax -spray ons ) to protect your table saw tables,jointers etc

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Michael Obrycki December 1, 2015 6:54 pm

Love the shop talk. Definitely looking forward to more of these.

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Hadas December 2, 2015 4:01 am

Firstly this is a great idea!
I’m currently looking into machines to set up my first ever studio, is this is a great help. just wondering what you meant by the Standard Miter Slot bit you mentioned, also would you be able to discuss bandsaws I’m trying to decide between the 18inch jet v’s the N4400 Hammer. whats troubling me in making a decision is the hight discrepancy of the two tables, table size and and the fence on the hammer has 3 adjustment handles on it to make the fence sit true.(to me this says too much room for error and excessively fiddly to make accurate every time you move the fence)

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Eric December 2, 2015 8:25 pm

I like the new mini-series.

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Steven Daniels December 2, 2015 9:42 pm

Just signing up for the site.

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Dan December 3, 2015 10:25 am

Marc

Congratulations for you and Nicole!
Looks like your little man has a little brother.

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- Marc Spagnuolo December 3, 2015 11:46 am
  
  Or sister. :) Thanks Dan!
  
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Adam December 4, 2015 11:18 am

How do you care for your table saw top? Some kind of wax?

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- Marc Spagnuolo December 5, 2015 9:17 am
  
  Yup. Just paste wax. But keep in mind I live in a VERY dry area so rust isn’t much of a problem.
  
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sean mancini December 4, 2015 12:50 pm

I couldn’t agree with you guys more I just went through the same thing I bought tools I could afford and will upgrade later.

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Phil December 5, 2015 7:09 pm

I have the Jet and I love the Jet, I built 2 of the Shaker Night stands with it and lots of other things.

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Andrew December 9, 2015 12:27 pm

Marc,

Thanks for this. I’d call it fate or destiny or which ever you believe in but i was looking at table saws for a few days before you posted this.I wanted to buy 1 saw and never breech the subject again. Like i learned in other places the man that tries to cheap out ends up paying twice. I eyed up the jet like Skip ended up with but i wasn’t convinced that it would be the last saw i ever bought. If i consider buying a saw once and never needing to buy it again or ever wanting to upgrade a previously expensive saw costs a lot less in the long run. $1,000 today plus $2,000 in the future is 50% more than $2,000 today.

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jpeccerillo December 9, 2015 3:20 pm

Marc, first off, I love your videos, and your app. I always get great advice and you do some beautiful work. I just wanted to chime in on the table saw advice. Im a huge proponent of vintage woodworking equipment. My table saw is a 1950s Unisaw, my jointer is a 1960s Delta 8″, my lathe is a 1950s Craftsman, and I recently parted with my 1940s Dewalt radial arm saw. The positives are, with a little bit of elbow grease and friendly advice from others Ive spent about 600 total for all four of those machines combined. Its true, they dont build them like they used to, those machines are all bomb-proof heavy duty. The only negatives are that you really need to do your homework and do what needs to be done to get these old machines back to pristine working condition and up to standard as far as safety. I just thought Id mention this to those people just getting started in putting together their shop. I certainly dont discount modern equipment. There are some newer machines that i definitely covet, but for the thousands they would cost me I have outfitted almost my entire shop. Just some food for thought. Thanks for reading.

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- Matt February 28, 2017 8:24 pm
  
  Hi I’m thinking about buying a refurbished 1960s delta Rockwell cabinet saw. What safety features should I be aware of, to get things up to today’s standards? I’m assuming I can install a splitter like a micro jig, but what else? An aftermarket blade guard?
  
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Michael December 12, 2015 7:07 am

Hi Marc, got a question for a future shop talk episode: how do you set the knives on a thicknesser, ie after a knife sharpening? I’ve seen your tune up vids for other machines, in particular the jointer, but this subject just seems awkward and difficult.

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- Marc Spagnuolo December 12, 2015 8:54 am
  
  I actually don’t have a straight knife planer anymore so I don’t really have a means to demonstrate that. But I can assure, it’s exactly and awkward and difficult as it seems. :)
  
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Scott J December 16, 2015 12:12 am

I store all of my tools in my undersized one-car garage (as well as our bikes, lawnmower, laundry machines, guitar cases…basically anything but a car)…but my “shop” is really the driveway. To use any of my tools, I have to pull the tools I want to use out, and over a 1.25″ drop-off fro, the garage to the driveway.

Due to my space situation, I simply can’t use a “shop” type stationary table saw. Do you have any experience with the Bosch 4100 saw with it’s clever base? How about the equivilant Dewalt with it’s seemingly less-clever base? I’ve made it for 5 years with my $59 Lowe’s Black Friday special “Tradesman” brand saw…but it’s time to upgrade.

Currently, I use folding plastic tables saws and the tops of some IKEA dining table as my work tables. I feel like maybe I could build one big-ass rolling table, but it would need some really good casters to make it up that garage elevation change, and yet still be able to be locked for stability…and levelling is still an issue.

Any advice you can give is much appreciated!

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- Marc Spagnuolo December 17, 2015 5:45 am
  
  Unfortunately, I have zero experience to speak of when it comes to those two models. Sorry Scott.
  
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David Massey December 18, 2015 7:03 am

I love the Strong Bad reference! As always, great job.
Happy Holidays!

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Rick R December 18, 2015 7:13 am

I have the Bosch (still), and 2014-08 upgraded to the PM1000. The Bosch did everything I asked of it and only upgraded for the stability making beds and other large projects. But the Bosch cut 8- and even 12/4 stock, working best with a thin kerf blades making my first bed. Unless you just want the safety of the new saw stop jobsite, the Bosch won’t fail you. There’s a reason its at the top of the reviews all the time. MHO.

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Terry A Robbe December 18, 2015 7:26 am

Great topic! I have the Powermatic 2000, 3 HP. I love this saw, but if I was to buy a table saw today it would have to be Sawstop. Safety is number one and the quality of the Sawstop is just as good as Powermatic.

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Jamie Lennox December 18, 2015 11:38 am

SawStop hands down! Best dust collection, sliding crosscut table, safety features, height and tilt adjustment, you name it, it has it all. I would argue that if you are a novice or a seasoned woodworker that the safety features of SawStop alone should be the most important selling point. If you sever your fingers you will end up paying huge hospital bills and it may jeopardize your livelihood. At home I have the SawStop. At work I use the latest unisaw. SawStop is 100 times better than the unisaw or any other saw that I have used. It is well worth the extra coin to insure your safety and get the best woodworking results. I have accumulated tools over time and each tool was worth the wait.

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Splinter December 22, 2015 12:30 pm

Marc, In a previous video (I believe # 188) you mentioned that you once had been in possession of an old Craftsman table saw that had a pipe guide bar for the fence. I recently inherited an old AMT table saw from my father that also has such a pipe guide bar. To be frank, the guide bar and fence is crap! Is it possible to replace it with a more contemporary guide bar and fence?

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- Marc Spagnuolo December 22, 2015 2:25 pm
  
  It should be, though it might take some fiddling. I replaced my fence with a Vega brand fence, which includes both the bar and the fence itself. Much more reliable than the stock fence. http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ.....6QPPVNNEXB
  
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Keith December 28, 2015 7:10 am

I’m really struggling with this. I’m looking to upgrade my table saw and trying to figure out if it’s worth it to spend the money on a power attic pm1000, get a sawstop for the safety feature or go with a grizzly for the value. I’m a pilot so the sawstop feature intrigues me (Can’t afford to lose a finger). Powermatics are 10% off in January at woodcraft. It’s a hard decision. I’m a novice woodworker looking to get more serious about the hobby and I think the table saw is probably the most important tool so I want to make the right decision.

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- Marc Spagnuolo December 28, 2015 7:42 am
  
  When it comes to woodworking and pure performance, you’ll be happy with either saw. So this really just comes down to a personal decision about budget and safety. Kinda like the extended warranty offer when buying large electronics and appliances. You’re already getting the product you need/want, but it’s always difficult to justify spending the extra couple hundred bucks for something you aren’t sure you’ll ever actually need. You’ll find solid justification on both sides of that fence, just as you will in the SawStop debate.
  
  While I firmly believe that anyone who wants a SawStop should definitely get one, there are a couple things to know about tablesaws that might impact your decision. First, table saws don’t just jump up and bite you. You need to have your hands close to the blade in order to be cut. With proper safety practices you should never have your hands close enough to the blade that they can be drawn into it. Yes, accidents happen. But they are more likely to happen when you get complacent and ignore basic safety precautions. Second is the fact that the SawStop only prevents one type of table saw injury: the cut. But there’s a far more common injury where SawStop is on the same level as other brands: kickback. A riving knife is your best defense and all modern saws have those.
  
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Keith December 28, 2015 12:27 pm

Thanks for the advice! It’s a difficult decision and I think you’re right, if you take precautions and respect the saw most likely nothing will happen. I promised myself after I retired from the military I’d get a new table saw as a present to myself. So here goes nothing!

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Roger Johnson January 2, 2016 2:48 pm

Mark I saw your fence from Alan Little but I need to buy a new saw first,I am wondering what you think of the pm2000 compared to the jet xacta saw

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 4, 2016 8:36 am
  
  I honestly haven’t had any time with the Jet unit so can’t offer a first-hand opinion. Sorry Roger.
  
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Brian Field January 3, 2016 5:24 pm

These videos are tremendous! Thank you!

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Mr. Barbercheck January 30, 2016 5:40 am

As always great explanations Marc. I find myself modeling your style when I have to explain things to others. One technology I’ve been keeping my eyes on is the Bosch reaxx. Similar sawstop safety advantages, but sucks the blade down instead of using a brake. I’m pretty sure it’s not on shelves yet and still under development. Also, I agree with the commenter who was thinking about noise. Some motors have a high pitched whirrrr that I just can’t stand.

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Jeff Metcalf March 2, 2016 8:41 pm

I would like to hear your thoughts on tablesaws for the begginers for under $500 that is movable. I’ve been looking at bench top models and building a work center to mount it to. Thoughts?

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CathieZ March 23, 2016 12:34 pm

Hi Mark. Thanks for all the work you to do share all the great info with us. Im local to Phoenix, AZ and trying to find a place to buy wood that wont break the bank for a newbie to learn on. So far Ive just done little projects with the kids I mentor making tool boxes and such from fence boards from the blue box store. Ive messed around with furring strips to reinforce my wood slats on the king bed. Is there a place around here I can buy hardwood that you recommend?

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CathieZ March 23, 2016 12:39 pm

What are your thoughts about beginners buying table saws they can “grow into” rather than “graduate to?”

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David May 1, 2016 1:34 pm

Hello marc and the rest of the wood workers. Funny i come across this topic as my old craftsman took a dive 2 noghts agao, time for a newer one and i am a fan of older, heavy duty equipment anyway. I found a Grizzly 10″ 110 or 220 1.5 hp for $350, has upgraded fence, and a few other like blades, kerf <- never used this lol, had no clue what it was till i searched lol. Mounted to a nice cart made in 2003 or another Grizzly 3hp with extentions called a cabnet saw. Any advise on either kind of saw thanks. I do cut 4×4/3×3 or any hard wood like this as i buy slabs of wood off a local cleabing out a forest. Thanks Dave

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Charles Vavra July 31, 2016 9:44 am

I watched your video on table saws and would like to know more about your aftermarket fence. The name would be helpful, because I can Goggle for more information.
Thanks

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- Marc Spagnuolo July 31, 2016 10:26 am
  
  http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....saw-fence/
  
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Michael Warner March 4, 2017 11:49 pm

Hey Marc. I saw a video you did… I don’t remember how many years ago where you visited a tool show in Las Vegas and you were introduced to the tenryu blade and a particular brand of table saw I’m interested in. Steel City. I live in a particularly humid area so much as I’d love a sawstop or powermatic, I feel I can’t even begin to justify the sawstop price tag and keeping the cast iron top of the powermatic free of rust sounds all but impossible. I thought steel city’s 10 in” saws were very reasonably priced, but I’m seeing mixed reviews. Would you recommend steel city or should I just say screw it and get the powermatic? Granted I’ll have to pinch pennies for a long time before I can afford any of the above mentioned names. Just looking for thoughts. Thank you so much for all your great videos.

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- Marc Spagnuolo March 6, 2017 8:11 am
  
  Well the table saw won’t be the only cast iron in your shop. So you’ll be dealing with this situation no matter what you do. Now as far as Steel City is concerned, I really haven’t heard much about or from them since they had a restructuring. Not that I promote making assumptions without information, but when a company gets quiet I become hesitant to buy their products. Plus, the whole granite top thing never really took off like anyone was expecting. Not sure why exactly but you just don’t see them around much. Another thing that would make me hesitant to buy one.
  
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  - Michael Warner March 6, 2017 11:22 pm
    
    Actually after a bit more research i guess steel city shut down and sold everything to a company in Canada so the only way to get support for one of their products is to talk to your distributor you bought it from so that’s a no go for me, but I understand everything you said too. The pm1000 seems like a great saw though. Thank you as always for your advice.
    
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Cindy April 3, 2017 7:16 pm

Hi Marc,
I am a newbie woodworker and a friend loaned/gave me his 30+ year old Craftsman table saw which he demonstrated it working before I loaded it onto my truck. When I got it home, I cleaned it, oiled it and changed the blade since it had not been used in 15+ years. When I turned it on to use for the first time, the motor simply hummed and did not turn the belt or blade. A local shop told me it would cost up to $100 to fix the motor. Since I will be investing in the saw, what do you think is a fair price to offer the owner since I would rather keep it if I invest in it? Also, the engine shop told me these motors are better than the new ones being made. Your thoughts please?

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Thomas October 9, 2017 2:59 pm

I’m struggling on a fence for my saw.what would you recommend
A beismeyer or incra ls.

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- Marc Spagnuolo October 9, 2017 3:38 pm
  
  Personally I’m a fan of the Beis style.
  
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Barrie Knop January 13, 2019 12:16 am

Just been watching your Video on the table saw.
I like the Powermatic but I am going to end up with a Hammer K3 winner Comfort.
The problem in Western Australia is the Powermatic Dealer. No more to say on that.
The Hammer dealer is so helpful, even offering to come 200 Kilometers to install the machine. Just like he has done for one of my friends.

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 14, 2019 11:42 am
  
  Hammer makes some good stuff. I’m sure you’ll be pleased with that purchase. Sorry to hear the PM dealer out there isn’t so helpful.
  
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John semenetz September 3, 2019 3:32 pm

I just found your website and find your videos useful and your presentation of material easy to understand and enjoyable.

Can you please shed some light on wood glues? Is one any better than another? Titbond vs. gorilla vs. Elmers, etc.,

Additionally, is there a proper method of applying the glue?

Thank you,
John

Reply

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